One of our many Specialties.

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Top quality requires preparation!

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Like Picasso, preparation of the surface is paramount.

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Our finishes are designed to last and last.

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We can help assist you in choosing the proper colors.

5442 King Road
Loomis, Ca. 95650-9027

Office/Fax: 916-652-5309
Cell: 916-532-1755
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What is Elastomeric?

Relatively new product available in most major brands. Proven effective in it’s water preventing quality. Thick paint with the ability to expand and contract with weather conditions and not crack. Similar to the manner in which caulk seals. Architects and building contractors have been recommending this product for commercial and residential use. Over time, regular paint may shrink and become brittle causing old small cracks to reappear. Elastomeric fills the cracks and creates a stretch bridge with expansion, leaving the cracks still covered. This product may cost a little more but like anything else, it is worth it. This paint material is more expensive to apply, per gallon. The thickness of the paint requires a few more gallons for proper coverage. It takes more labor and heavier spray equipment to apply. The improvement is dramatic. Not only in appearance but the added protection makes this product upgrade worth the cost.

What causes blistering/bubbles in paint?

Moisture is the problem. This is not the paint or the painter. The solution can only be found by tracking down the source of the water. To scrape or blast off the surface and prime and paint will not prevent the problem. It will reappear. When the moisture problem is found and repaired the wall must be allowed to dry thoroughly before painting can be done.

What about mildew?

Mildew is a living organism or spore carried in the air. It likes moisture and loves wallpaper paste in the bathroom. The moist air and the mild temperature are ideal for the spore growth. If the paper in the bathroom is discolored, more than likely it is mold spores. Wallpaper does not breathe well creating an ideal environment for growth. Regardless of where it is found, interior or exterior, closets or open rooms; it must be killed before covering with paint or any other surface. There are primer and paint products with mildew inhibitors and they are recommended after all the spores have been destroyed. Proper ventilation is a big factor.

Does old wallpaper need to be removed?

No, not always. If it is in good shape and adhering properly with smooth edges and seams then probably it can be papered over. If you intend to paint over the paper it is best to try and remove the paper. If it does not want to come off easily then it may be primed and textured a little to match existing walls. Removal of wallpaper depends on the glue used and the number of times the wall has been papered. There are commercial removers. These products must get through the surface to the paste or they are ineffective. Most often a wet beech towel tacked over the surface helps along with pricking the surface everywhere to let the solvent in and under. Commercial rollers to perforate the surface are available. Having wallpaper professionally removed can be rather expensive. Again, depending on the glue. Most new wallpaper is applied with primers to make it easier and less troublesome to remove. Old papers can be difficult.

What do you do with peeling paint?

Finding out why paint is peeling is always of interest. It is easy to blame the painter or the paint. However, that may not be the case. If the paint is peeling down to the wood then the last painter is not to blame. Often older wood homes will peel from sun exposure. Sunlight, year after year causes expansion and contraction and even primer will separate from the wood with time. Dark colors of house paint absorb the sun and get hotter than white or light colors. The west side of the home has the most sun exposure, unless shaded. You can tell if sunlight is to blame if the peeling is less under the eaves where the sun does not hit the wall directly. When repainting begins pay special attention not to paint with direct sunlight on the surface. This may cause the primer and paint to dry too rapidly trapping the solvents. Later they may turn to vapor and put pressure against the topcoat. Two things can be done before repainting begins. One is to see if the most damage is on the sunny side and just strip off the original primer by blasting. The second thing is to spot scrape, sand and peel down to a tight surface and then prime and paint the entire area. This cost less, however, it also requires more maintenance. This does little for the areas that may eventually peel. Touch up scraping and painting may be necessary within a year or two.

Can factory paneling be painted?

Yes. The process is time consuming. The paint must be allowed to cure for up to three weeks before you can determine the durability.
However, with proper cleaning first, then light sanding, the paneling would be ready to receive primer. This must be a product suited specifically to create a bond to the substrate. Most often a very good acrylic primer will do the trick. The use of a product such as Kilz may not be designed to bond properly and can be smelly indoors. Once cleaned and sanded make sure to caulk all cracks and putty nails and dry thoroughly. Sand fill areas. The use of an industrial degreaser such as No Sand is a great idea before primer. Only degrease an area you can do within a 30 minute period with primer. Apply a topcoat of a satin acrylic eggshell finish for durability.

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